March 14, 2004
Suits & Ties
Forced by business / job necessities, I need to move incognito inside the world of suits & ties from time to time now. Never having submitted myself to the "standard" dress code before, I encountered some knowledge that I did not need until now. I felt a bit like an anthropologist camouflaging as a ape to study the habits of an unknown herd of strange apes. As always, when I am on a fearless expedition into realms of the unknown, I will try to note the more interesting bits here.
First: its not the tie, it is the collar of the shirt that threatens breathing and blood circulation. The tie can always be tricked into not strangling you, but too small shirts are unavoidable deadly. Shirts sizes are commonly specified by the girth of the neck in centimeters, which determines how wide the collar is. Surprisingly, this trivial measurement seems to provide sufficiently good information on the overall dimensions of the rest of the torso, to produce a more or less fitting shirt. People who are playing this game for years, strongly recommended to buy one size wider then the actual girth measurement, thereby avoiding to be suffocated by the collar. I am glad I followed the advice.
Second: binding a tie is, above all other things, a question of training. It is the same principle as with difficult seamen knots. Actually, the instruction graphics on the different ways to tie a tie look exactly the same as the ones in maritime instruction books. The best looking tie knots are also the most complicated to master. To be able to tie even a relatively simple knot took me about a hour of training in front of the mirror. Of course I wanted to be able to do it quickly and in a way that does not look or feel bad, everything else would have been useless. So if you are about to wear a tie for the first time in your life, plan for some long awkward moments in front of the mirror. Forget dressing up without a mirror. It seems to be possible with a lot of experience and training, but certainly not for the novice. The scientific literature insists that ties go faster out of fashion then suits, so it seems to be advisable to not use ties older then a few years.
The option for cheaters is to ask someone "in the know" to help. In emergency situations, the best and least embarrassing way to a perfectly bound tie is to walk fully dressed but with a unbound tie into a tie or mens fashion shop, and politely ask the salesperson for help. The two times when was forced to do this (reluctantly of course, who likes to be defeated by a simple freeform geometry problem...), the shop attendants were used to the situation and helped without any fuss or humiliating comments.
The third thing that struck me hard is how much time and money you need to spend on maintaining the stuff. Shirts and ties need to be constantly cleaned and ironed after one use, suits chemically dry cleaned not too seldom, shoes need to be polished and always stored with a Schuhspanner after use. All the clothes need to be stored on appropriate hangers, carefully aligned so not to cause crumples. When you are used to high-tech fabrics that are very easy to maintain, also look ok when crumpled and are nearly dry by itself when coming out of the washing machine, this is quite a nasty surprise. Without a complete service infrastructure, the job of maintaining a full business drag is too time consuming to consider.
Today, while being filmed for a product video dressed in shirt and tie, I heard a good explanation for all this high-maintenance clothing circus. It goes like this: If you are able to join the game and wear impractical high-maintenance clothes, you implicitly show that you have time and money to spend, way beyond mere survival.
This also neatly explains why all these big business honchos and politicos in TV often have a very complicated, but smooth looking tie-knot. It is all about status and showing how important you are. "Clothes make people" is still valid.
The truth is (I seriously hate admitting it), that wearing an obviously good / expensive set of costume massively changes the behavior of many people towards me. They listen from the first sentence, not only after I said something smart five times. I get better hotel rooms for the same price, have less trouble at airports and experience more implicit trust by other people wearing these costumes. I could really get used to that. It is like reaping the rewards for having joined the not-so-secret brotherhood of those who bent over deeply. "Join our silly world of rank and status games and you will be rewarded with attention and not be treated like some strange animal. Come on, brother. Everybody is doing it!".
So if, by accident, you happen to meet me in full drag, always remember that somewhere inside the monkey costume the anthropologist is lurking. (Cue in evil laughter here, fading off into the distance.)
Posted by frank at March 14, 2004 12:25 PM | TrackBackThe scientific approach makes ties and suits easier to bear indeed. I can recommend theoretical physics in addition to anthropology: See the book "The 85 Ways to Tie a Tie" (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0767906438). The authors exhaustively classify all possible tie knots using a formalism based on mathematical knot theory and topology. In an appendix they demonstrate how their description of tie knots is equivalent to random walks on triangular lattices. -- Quote: "We now need a definition or mathematical description of a tie knot. This description must be complete and specific, distinguishing between all tie knots and ruling out tangles of fabric that are of no use to a gentleman."
Posted by: mesch at March 14, 2004 09:27 PMWillkommen in der demütigenden Welt der Herrenausstattung.
Posted by: holgi at March 21, 2004 11:44 AMIgnorance can be masked by a smart silk tie. That's the first thing they teach in business school.
Posted by: Tom Morris at March 28, 2004 06:47 PMYou know what's interesting about Washington? It's the kind of place where second-guessing has become second nature.
Posted by: Birnbaum Daniel at May 3, 2004 10:15 PMThere are as many translators as there are humans.
Posted by: Lachman Dave at June 30, 2004 09:10 PMI just surfed around and found your site, I really enjoyed the visit and hope to come back soon. Greetings,
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